Holly House Exotic Sp Care Plan : Reptiles: Green Iguana
                                                                   
                           Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) Care Plan
        Green iguanas are large arboreal folivorous lizards from South America.   They can  live for  30 
        years and grow to over a metre in length. 
        Suitability as Pets
        Green Iguanas are not ʻpetsʼ in the traditional sense – they do not naturally like being handled or 
        played with and indeed this can  be extremely stressful for them. They have specific  husbandry 
        requirements and should only be kept  by those willing to adequately provide for  their  needs. 
        However, Iguanas are beautiful and fascinating animals and can be a challenge for the keeper. 
        Captive bred animals should be purchased from a reputable dealer – wild caught specimens are 
        more likely to be stressed and to carry internal parasites, and by buying these individuals you will 
        be contributing to the importation of this vulnerable species from the wild.
        Iguanas often do well when housed with other iguanas. Iguanas generally do not like dogs. Larger 
        iguanas may get along fine with cats once they are big enough to teach the cat some respect. Very 
        small birds, such as finches, may view iguanas with some alarm. While rodents are unlikely to be 
        considered as a form of sushi on the run by a properly fed and raised iguana, mice may be 
        stressed out by an iguana. There are always exceptions to the rules.
        Sexing & Reproduction
        In  males the femoral  pores are more pronounced and there are bulges due to the presence of 
        hemipenes at the base of the tail.  
        Females have smaller dorsal spines, smaller operculum scales and smaller femoral pores.
        Male iguanas know when human females are going through their monthly cycles. Iguana males 
        may attack menstruating human females. 
        Housing 
        Iguanas need large vivariums or preferably converted rooms with plenty of branches for climbing. 
        A min/max thermometer and humidity dial should be used to monitor the temperature range and 
        humidity respectively.
        Lighting 
        Iguanas need ultraviolet B light for vitamin D synthesis and calcium metabolism.  While this is best 
        provided by access to natural sunlight,  this is obviously not a  practical  option  in Britain.   Light 
        sources such as Powersun (Zoomed) Iguana light, Reptisun (Zoomed) Sun-glo or Life-glo lights 
        are suitable.  Most lights must be replaced regularly as their UVB output declines rapidly after 6-9 
        months.
        Heating/ Temperature
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 HOLLY HOUSE VETERINARY SURGERY, 468 STREET LANE MOORTOWN NORTH LEEDS LS17 6HA, (0113) 2369030

        
    Stuart McArthur Last Reviewed May 08
                              Holly House Exotic Sp Care Plan : Reptiles: Green Iguana
        Their preferred temperature zone (POTZ) is 29-35ºC or 85-92ºF.  To stimulate appetite and digest 
        their  food, iguanas should have access to a basking area that remains at 30-35ºC (88-92ºF) for 
        about 12 hours a day.  
        The rest of the enclosure should have a temperature gradient from 30-35ºC at the hot spot to 25ºC 
        at the coolest area during the day.  
        Iguanas over 2 years old can tolerate night time drops to 20ºC, but for younger iguanas the lowest 
        temperature should be 25ºC.
        Furniture (Climbing and shelter)
        Iguanas benefit from a climbing arboreal setup. Basking areas should be elevated and branches 
        and plastic leaf structures are suitable
        Rocks or logs can be used to create hiding places or purpose built hide boxes can be used.  
        Provide branches to climb, rocks to bask upon, and shelter to hide in.  Ideally a rock and or branch 
        will be placed  under the heat/UV lamp. Hardy plants like sansevieria, aloe, palms, and 
        cycads may be used. 
        Water /Humidity
        Iguanas require a high level of humidity; around 80-90%.  
        Fresh water should be provided daily in a container large enough to permit bathing and the iguana 
        sprayed daily with warm water. 
        Most Iguanas prefer to defecate during a soak. Daily immersion helps improve the iguana's overall 
        hydration status, a critical factor in kidney health.
        Diet / Feeding
        Hatchlings and juveniles should be fed daily.  Mature iguanas can be fed every other day.
        An iguanaʼs diet should be 70% leafy greens, 20% vegetables and only 10% fruit.  Iguanas must 
        be offered a mixture of food items that have the correct calcium: phosphorus ratio.   It is vital to 
        provide as much variety as possible and not to rely on a few easily available items only.  
        Organic and pesticide free produce is recommended.   Iguanas are best regarded as vegetarian 
        and so should not be fed high protein  food such as egg, cheese, meat or cat/dog food.  
        It  is  best  to  feed  iguanas  in  the  morning  rather  than  the  evening.    Food should be  at  room 
        temperature with components well mixed and in bite-sized pieces.  It is important not to put down 
        so much food that it is impossible to tell  whether  the iguana  has eaten  any or  not!   Complete 
        iguana pelleted diets are available, however they are not recommended as the sole/main food for 
        an iguana. 
        Leafy greens:
        Use two or more of the following greens daily – dandelion (including flowers), watercress, mustard 
        cress,  parsley,  kohlrabi,  escarole,  collard,  turnip greens,  endive,  Chinese  leaves  (eg  pak/bok 
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 HOLLY HOUSE VETERINARY SURGERY, 468 STREET LANE MOORTOWN NORTH LEEDS LS17 6HA, (0113) 2369030

        
     Stuart McArthur Last Reviewed May 08
                              Holly House Exotic Sp Care Plan : Reptiles: Green Iguana
        choi),beet greens, carrot tops, romaine, kale, spinach, cabbage, hibiscus, nasturtium or geranium 
        leaves/petals, brussels sprouts, broccoli leaves.   Of these, kale, cabbage, spinach, broccoli and 
        brussels sprouts should not be given more than once a week.  Do not give iceberg lettuce at all as 
        it lacks nutrients, has a poor calcium:phosphorus ratio and iguanas often become hooked on them 
        to the exclusion of other greens.  Rhubarb should also never be used.
        Vegetables:
        A basic vegetable salad can be made up weekly and stored in an air-tight container in the fridge.  
        Suitable vegetables include parsnip, green beans, courgettes, peas (and pods), mange-tout, bean 
        sprouts, asparagus, carrots, squash, sweet potato, peppers, turnip, and okra.  Vegetables should 
        be shredded, grated or finely chopped and mixed thoroughly together.
        Fruit:
        Fruits  which  can  be  given  in  small  quantities  include  figs,  raspberries,  strawberries,  papaya, 
        mango, pears, plums, apricots, grapes, soaked raisins and kiwi (skinned).   Tomatoes, bananas 
        and  apples  should  be  used  only very occasionally (if  at  all),  as  they have  a  poor  calcium: 
        phosphorus ratio.
        Food Dusting/ Vitamin Supplementation
        The use of a high calcium and multivitamin supplement such as Nutrobal (Vetark) is recommended
        Preventative Care & Disease Management
        Always wash your hands (preferably with an antiseptic soap) before or after handling any reptile.
        For animals in  veterinary environment we advise the use of disposable gloves (to control RAS).
        Quarantine new reptiles for at least 3 months. During this time record normal patterns of eating, 
        defaecating, weight gain and behaviour and have them examined by a vet. 
        It is a good idea to take along a fresh faecal sample so that the vet can check for the presence of 
        gastrointestinal parasites. 
        Veterinary advice should be sought if your chameleon is not eating or producing faeces, is inactive, 
        has swellings, particularly around the eyes, is losing weight or has a discharge from its eyes, nose 
        or mouth.
        Accidents and injuries can happen, both to the reptile and the reptile handler. Not only can bites 
        happen, but also there are diseases that can be transmitted between animals - and that means 
        between reptiles and humans.
        Keepers should be ware of the prevention of reptile associated salmonellosis (RAS).
        Good hygiene is essential, not only to your pet's health, but to your own. 
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 HOLLY HOUSE VETERINARY SURGERY, 468 STREET LANE MOORTOWN NORTH LEEDS LS17 6HA, (0113) 2369030

        
    Stuart McArthur Last Reviewed May 08
                       Holly House Exotic Sp Care Plan : Reptiles: Green Iguana
      Reptiles can  be non- symptomatic  carriers of Salmonella,  bacteria  that cause sometimes lethal 
      food poisoning. 
      Children,  the  aged,  and  those  who  are  immune-compromised  are  particularly  susceptible  to 
      Salmonella from any source.  
      There are measures you can take to minimize risk:  
      • After handling your pet reptile, wash your hands with soap for at least 30 seconds, or use hand 
       disinfectant. 
      • Disinfect any area you used to clean cages, dishes and do not use this area for food preparation. 
      • Use separate cleaning utensils, not the sponge you use to wash your own dishes. 
      • Reptiles  are  NOT  recommended  if  you're  pregnant  or  have  a  young  child  or  an  immuno-
       compromised person in your home. 
      • Don't kiss a reptile pet.
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 HOLLY HOUSE VETERINARY SURGERY, 468 STREET LANE MOORTOWN NORTH LEEDS LS17 6HA, (0113) 2369030

      
   Stuart McArthur Last Reviewed May 08